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2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

A. MCDOWELL. Adjustable Pattern-Plates for Drafting Garments; No.213,436.- Patented Mar. 18, I879.

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ATTORNEY- N. PETERS, PHDTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON D C.

2 Sheets--Sheet 2.

A. MoDOWELL. Adjustable Pattern-Plates for Drafting Garments No.213,436. Patented Mar. 18,1879.

gnhmtur ATTOKNEY.

N. PETERS, PHOTO-LITHOGRAFHER, WASHINGTON. D

UNITED STATES PATENT @FFICE- ALBERT MCDOWELL, OF PHILADELPHIA,PENNSYLVANIA.

IMPROVEMENT IN ADJUSTABLE PATTERN-PLATES FOR DRAFTING GARME'NTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 213,436, dated March18, 1879; application filed May 18, 1878.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ALBERT McDoWELL, of the city and county ofPhiladelphia, and

- State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new ratus employed.

The object of this invention is to take such measures as are necessaryto give the correct dimensions of the body, and then apply the severalmeasures, each to that particular part of the gage arranged for it, andthus extend the gage according to the actual measures taken, and in theexact form in which the garment is to be cut; and this is accomplishedwithout further calculation, thereby dispensing with the usual draftingand allowances for imperfect figure, as it is necessary simply to followaround the continuous edges of the rule with a pencil or tracing-wheel,and there is produced a perfect pattern, according to the measure takenon the body.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1, A B O D E F G H J K L M N Nrepresent adjustable plates, which constitute the outlines of the frontapparatus, and they are slotted and movably connected by means ofsuitable screws, pins, or other fastenings.

The plates A and B are connected. The plate 0 is of angular form, andconnected to plates B D. The plate E is connected to the plate D andhinged to the plate F. The plate F is connected to the plate E andhinged to the plate G, which is connected to the plate H, which, inturn, is hinged to the plate J. The plate K is connected to the plate Jand to the upper limb of the plate 0 and hinged to the plate L. Theplate M is connected to the plate L and hinged to the plate N. The plateN is connected to the plate N and hinged to the upper end of the plateA.

It will be seen that a portion of the outer faces of the plates A Bforms the neck-curve a b. The outer faces of the plates 0 D and aportion of plate B form the front line, b e, which may be straight orcurved. The outer faces of the plates M L K J form the front arm-holeline, 0 d.

P represents a plate, which is connected to the plate 0 and to a plate,R, which is connected to the plate J.

Z Z Z Z represent dart-plates, whose upper ends are connected to theplates P and R or J, and their lower ends to the plates E F.

Referring to Fig. 2, A B G D E F G H represent adjustable plates, whichconstitute the outlines of the back apparatus, the plate B beingconnected at opposite ends to the plates A O, and of angular form.

The plate D is connected to the plate E and hinged to the plate 0, saidplate E being hinged to the plate F. The plate G is connected to theplate H, and the two plates are hinged at opposite ends to the plate Aand plate F, respectively.

J represents a plate which is connected to the projecting limb of theangular plate B.

The several plates are slotted and rendered adjustable, they being heldin adjusted positions by screws, pins, or other fastenin gs.

The slots of the plates D E maybe curved or-straight, according to thenature of the edge required.

Referring to Fig. 3, K L M N P R S represent the outlines of the sidebody. The plate K is connected to the plate L, and the two plates arehinged at opposite ends to the plates S M respectively. The plate N isconnected to the plates M P, and-the plate P is hinged to the plate R;but theplates N P may be made of one piece. The plate R is connected tothe plate S.

The slots of the plates R S, in which the rivets play, may be straightor curved, as may be required, for the outer edge of the plates.

Take the measure of the neck where the top of the garment is to go andthe measure of the arm at the shoulder for the arm-hole. Measure astraight line aroundthe' body close up under the arms, taking care tohave it at a right angle with the line of the body. This will be thefull breast-measure, and is indicated by the line 00 m. From this linemeasure from the center of the body in front up to the base of the neck,or as far as the garment is required to go. From this line measure downthe front as far as the waist is to extend, which, together with themeasure to the base of the neck, will give the length of the front.Measure around the waist. Deduct the waistmeasure from the fullbreast-measure, and this gives the amount of fullness to be taken out bythe darts, as per scale. Measure also from the line am, under the arms,on the back, up the neck as far as required, or the garment is to go,and from said line measure down the back as far as the waist is toextend. This with the measure up the back gives the full length of theback. Measure across the back just below the shoulders for the width ofback. Measure from under the arm down to the hip, or as far as the waistis to go, for length of side seam. Deduct from the full breast-measurethe width of the back, and we have the front breast-measure, as perscale adopted.

Having the necessary measures, they are applied to the scales or gage asfollows: For the neck-measure I move plate A on plate B until the scaleI) indicates the proper measure. This gives the size of the neck, andalso regulates the point a, where the shoulder seam begins on the neck.For the arm-hole I extend the plate M J as required by the measure orfigures indicated on the scale. For the front line I extend plate B asrequired by the measure until the figure is indicated by the scale onthe plate 0. Then extend plate D, as required by the proper measure,until the figure is indicated by its scale. These two adjustments givethe length of the front. Plate K is extended, as required by thebreast-measure, until the proper figure is indicated by its scale. Thisgives the width of the front. For the side seam, extend plate Gaccording to the proper measure, thus giving the length of the front atthe side. For the waist-measure I extend the plate F according to theproper measure thereof.

When one dart is required, the top of the dart V is placed at the properpoint bn the scale of the plate P, and plate Z shifted to plate Z. Theplate Z is placed on the plate E, according to the width of the dartrequired as found by the difference between the full breast-measure andthe waist.

When two darts are required or desired, I place U and V 011 plate I, asper scale. Place plate Z" on plate E at the dart-measure, as isindicated on the two-dart scale and plate Z, half of the distancebetween the plates Z Z.

When three darts are required, place plate Z on the measure indicated onthe two-dart on the three'dart scale. Divide the space between plates Zand Z and move the plate Z to the figure indicated by the scale. Extendplate N to the same figure on gage as is indicated on scale G, Fig. 2.

For height of dart, shift the plate P up or down on plate (J, asrequired. For this purpose the scale on plate 0 is arranged for themeasure from the center of the back of the neck to the top of the firstdart. This completes the front.

Place the plates B G D or the front line back I one and a half inch fromthe edge of the goods. Draw a line down the front and around the edgeand mark the darts, and the front of the garment is complete, withallowance for all seams made.

To use the apparatus shown in Fig. 2, in order to find the length of theback, I extend the piece A according to the measure indicated by thescale on plate B, and also extend plate C according to the measureindicated by its scale. This gives the length of the back.

To form the back part of the arm-hole, I extend plate F until the propermeasure is indicated on its scale.

For the width of the back, the plate J is extended until the measurerequired is indicated on its scale, and the plates G E are extended asrequired to form, respectively, the shoulder-seam and the seam betweenthe side, body, and back.

To use the apparatus shown in Fig. 3, in or der to obtain the side seam,I extend plate N untlil the required measure is indicated on its sca e.

For the waist-measure, extend plate K on plate L until the properwaist-measure is indicated by the scale. Plates R S are extended untilthe figure indicated on the scale of plate S is the same as the figureindicated on the scale of plate E.

It will be noticed that each scale employed is a full measure,accompanied by a propor tional scale.

It will be noticed that the armhole extends in a continuous curve, 0 d,and it is formed of the adjacent adjustable plates.

It will be observed that I produce a varia ble extension pattern or gagewhich gives to each part of the garment its proper shape and size,according to the actual measure taken of that part on the body, and soplaces and connects these several measures as to form a pattern with acontinuous edge.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is-

1. An adjustable pattern for drafting the front of an upper garment,composed of the plates AB C D E F GHJKLMNN,substantially as describedand shown.

2. An adjustable pattern for drafting the back of an upper garment,composed of the plates A B G D E F G H J, substantially as described andshown.

3. An adjustable pattern for drafting the side body of an upper garment,composed of the plates K L M N P It S, substantially as described andshown.

4. The upper plates, PR, and lower plates,. seams, substantially asdescribed; and. form- E F, in combination with the dart-plates U V in ga complete pattern for drafting an upper Z Z Z Z, substantially as and.for the purgarment. pose set forth.

5. A variable extension'pattern composed of ALBERT MCDOWELL the severalslotted plates A B G D E F Gr H Witnesses:

L M N P R S, with projecting portions for A. P. GRANT.

